Ever wonder just how to paint a smooth surface without leaving brush marks?
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You see all these items in your house that are painted with a brush, such as cabinets, furniture, railings, trim, baseboards, and other woodwork, yet you don’t see brush marks when a professional does it.
What’s their secret?
When you do it, after everything dries, you see a line-up of deep canyons left behind by the brush. They show your every move, each bristle and strand of brush marks going where you went with your brush.
The truth is there’s no magic going on with the pros. They just use the tricks of the trade. Knowledge + technique + a little experience goes a long way to getting your professional painting look.
Covered below, we open up the book on how to avoid brush marks and also see if you can fix brush marks that are already there.
5 Steps to No More Brush Marks
Here’s the best 5 tips to use to get the most professional look out of your brush painting.
1. Fast Isn’t Always Best
When it comes to painting fast, the most important speed we’re talking about is paint drying time. What’s that old saying about something extremely slow and boring– “it’s like watching paint dry!”
The main reason you get paintbrush marks in the first place is because the paint hasn’t flowed out completely before it’s dried.
So, the first tip in avoiding paintbrush lines is to buy slow-drying paint. This is usually higher quality paint that is labeled to take up to 24-hours to dry.
Beware of labels that say “dry to the touch” after a couple hours, or Quick-Dry. While this might be helpful if you’re in a hurry to complete a project, it may not lead you to the best results.
You really do want to remember that phrase from above about watching paint dry. Remember an even better phrase too when it comes to painting: “Slow Makes Paint Flow!”
And flowing paint means a smoother finish.
The only word of caution here is to be careful not to bump the paint or handle painted surfaces while they’re drying since you may be used to faster drying times.
Timber Paint Brush Screwfix
2. Go Horizontal
A second trick to help you avoid those unwanted brush marks is to always paint on a horizontal plane if possible.
In other words, take down doors for painting or paint trim before installing. This will allow you to lie them flat and paint on top of them, so paint can flow evenly as it dries.
One of a painters best tools is actually a pair of saw-horses. These also help make painting large or long pieces easy as they can be positioned at just the right level.
This tip really piggy-backs off of the first one above about paint flowing. A nice, flat surface will allow gravity to pull the paint in all directions evenly…like a small pebble dropping in a placid lake.
So what happens when you paint vertically?
When you paint up and down with a brush those vertical brush lines just stay there as nothing allows them to spread out into each other.
You want those ridges from your brush strokes to flatten out, going side-to-side.
3. Go with the Grain
Another tip that you may already know (but need to do!) is to paint with the grain on wood surfaces.
Go in the same direction as the grain so that any brush strokes that do end up showing, will not be as noticeable.
4. Don’t Skimp, Do Two Coats
Next, realize that just about every paint job, done well, will need at least two coats. This is exactly whatgood, professional painters do.
That means, don’t try to lather it on thickly and soak it on in one coat.
Just make sure to cover the surface area with a good amount of paint evenly. Let it dry, and then come back and apply the second coat.
5. A Quality Brush Means a Quality Job
Finally, always (a big always!), buy a quality paintbrush. You’ll know it’s good because it’ll be a little more expensive than the rest on the shelf.
With proper paintbrush cleaning and care, you’ll have your brush for a long time. Bristles and hairs on these brushes will be of varying lengths and have a “slit-end” look at the ends of them instead of coming to a small point.
This “non-uniform” end lets paint clump more there, giving you a smoother application as paint glides on. Think of layered bangs in a good haircut, or carpeting with many fibers of different lengths – that’s what you’re after.
Now, if for any reason you didn’t end up with a really smooth surface and the paint has already dried, you can carefully sand down the fine grooves and ridges left by a brush with a fine, 120-grit type sandpaper.
Go over with a lint-free damp cloth to clean and try painting again keeping the tips above in mind.
Timber Fence Paint Brush
There you have it, a few basic how-tos on avoiding paintbrush marks.
Prime your next painting project for success with our recommendations for the best paint to use on wooden surfaces throughout the home.
Photo: istockphoto.com
Q: A few wooden surfaces in my home interior could use painting. What’s the best paint for wood—water- or oil-based? And what sheen do I want?
A: Wood is adaptable enough to receive either water- or oil-based paint, as long as you coat it with primer beforehand. But the myriad types of paint and sheen within these two categories can present you with a dizzying array of options at the paint store. Ultimately, the best type of paint and sheen to use depends on the wooden surface you’re painting. So, read on to learn which of the most common types of paints and sheens on the market are best suited for your wood painting project.
Get to know paint options and their sheens. Water-based paint is sold at paint stores and home centers in traditional latex ($15 to $40 per gallon), milk ($15 to $25 per quart), or chalk varieties ($15 to $35 per quart), while oil-based paints are either alkyd-based (made with synthetic resins called alkyds; $20 to $50 per gallon) or plant-oil-based (made with linseed or other plant oils; $30 to $50 per quart). Traditional latex, alkyd-based, and plant-oil-based paint also come in a number of sheens—flat (matte), eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and high gloss, in order of lowest to highest luster. You can expect to pay one to two dollars more per gallon for every step up on the sheen spectrum. Milk and chalk paint, which you can buy or DIY with good results, are naturally matte, so commercial cans of these paints don’t usually indicate a sheen.
Photo: istockphoto.com
Pick a stain-blocking primer for your wood, no matter the project. Whether you’re painting unfinished or painted wood, it’s essential to prime it before painting since tinted organic compounds in wood called tannins will otherwise bleed into any water-based paint applied on top—especially when painting over dark, tannin-rich woods like knotty pine. Primer creates a barrier between wood and paint that prevents this tannin bleed-through. While oil-based paint is less susceptible to tannin bleed-through, primer (which runs $16 to $25 per gallon) is still recommended under all paints to ensure an even foundation that will help you achieve a more uniform paint finish. So, choose one that matches the type of paint you’re using: stain-blocking latex primer for latex paint and stain-blocking oil-based primer for oil-based paints. How knotty your wood is may guide you in deciding which types of primer and paint you use, as oil-based primers (like the paints) do a better job penetrating and sealing the wood and block tannins more effectively than water-based primers.
Use traditional latex paint on seldom-used furnishings. This water-based paint is a top choice for infrequently-used furnishings (e.g. entryway tables or stair spindles) since it can be tinted to match any color you desire for the furniture and dries faster than oil-based paint. (For reference, latex paint coats normally dry to the touch in one to four hours as opposed to eight hours or more for oil-based paint coats.) Latex paints today are also cheaper, lower in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and less likely to show pesky brush marks seen on alkyd-based oil paint coats. Within latex paints, those with a flat to satin sheen reflect less light than glossier sheens, meaning that completely smooth coat masks furniture flaws (knicks and scratches to be painted over) more effectively. They’re also the most inexpensive sheen options for furniture you don’t handle often.
Bulk Paint Brushes
Use chalk or milk paint for distressed furnishings.These decorative water-based paints are known for their elegant shabby-chic look and matte sheen, making them an attractive option for furnishings that would benefit from a distressed look. Milk paint cracks, flakes, and distresses easily, which gives it a more pronounced weathered look that’s ideal for focal point pieces like wooden hutches or headboards. Chalk paint less easily distresses on its own, giving you more control over the distressed effect and usually resulting in a softer, more subdued aged effect that’s perfect for items that complete a room such as end tables or wooden coat racks.
Photo: istockphoto.com
Consider alkyd-based oil paint on everyday furnishings. It dries into a rigid layer over wood and continues to harden on the wood surface over time, making wooden chairs, dining tables, and other frequently-used furnishings less susceptible to scuff marks or dents than the soft, more flexible surface of a water-based paint coat. Alkyd-based paint dries faster than plant-oil-based paint (some plant-oil-based paints take up to three days to dry)—meaning the furniture you use most won’t be out of commission drying for as long as it would be with a plant-oil-based paint. Opt for semi-gloss or high-gloss sheen; these are the smoothest to the touch and the easiest to wipe clean. These sheens also hold up better to harsh cleaners and scrubbers, which may tarnish a lower luster paint coat.
Select alkyd-based oil paint for kitchen and bathroom cabinets.These cabinets are exposed to considerable moisture from water or cooking fumes, which are absorbed over time to a greater degree by the average water-based paint, and can spur the growth of mildew or mold on the cabinet surface. Oil-based paint is water- and rot-repellent. Use an alkyd-based paint instead of a plant-oil-based paint on moisture-exposed cabinets since it’s less likely to turn yellow over time—a downside of plant-oil-based paint. Semi-gloss or high-gloss paint sheens are your best bets; their non-porous, smoother finish is easier to clean, and moisture beads on these surfaces rather than being absorbed, so the paint coat doesn’t weather or fade with time. The exception is shelves in the cabinet interior; if you opt to paint these, you want a flat to satin sheen because they’re better at withstanding the weight of dishes.
Cover cabinets in dry areas of the home with traditional latex paint. It’s the most inexpensive and fastest-drying option for cabinets that live in spaces where moisture isn’t a concern—say, in a home office or entertainment room. A flat to satin sheen is best for cabinet shelves, especially those that carry electronics or other heavy objects, but choose a semi-gloss to high-gloss sheen for the cabinet exterior to make lighter work of cleaning it.
Use alkyd-based oil paint on standard trim. Interior trim—whether baseboards, door casings, or window or ceiling trim—accumulates a fair amount of scuff marks and dents or dings over time. The rigid quality of an oil-based paint coat defends against these flaws more effectively than a softer and less durable water-based paint coat. Trim being a noticeable feature in the home interior (particularly when set against white walls), you’ll want to choose an alkyd paint over a plant-oil-based paint to avoid the risk of yellowing. As with cabinets, choosing paint in a semi-gloss or high-gloss sheen makes the job of cleaning dingy trim easier.
Use traditional latex paint on ornate trim. Decorative trim—for example, a crown molding with scrollwork (spiral-shaped pattern)—often contains grooves that oil-based paint has trouble reaching into and coating since it’s thicker and more viscous than water-based paint. The lower viscosity of water-based paint makes for a thinner paint that more readily reaches grooves and recesses in trim, getting you more uniform paint coverage. A flat to satin sheen is the most inexpensive option for ornate trim in low-traffic areas you don’t need to clean often.
Professional Paint Brushes
For floors, use alkyd-based oil paint. It can handle daily abuse from boot heels, sopping shoes and umbrellas, and furniture relocations without becoming water-damaged or dented. (The softer, more flexible surface of a water-based paint coat doesn’t hold up as well on painted wood floors in high-traffic zones.) While plant-oil-based paint also offers these benefits, it’s too cost prohibitive for most homeowners to apply to the large surface area of a floor. Choose a semi-gloss or high-gloss paint finish; the surface area of a floor is more labor-intensive to mop up if you’re working with a coarser flat to satin sheen.
Wood Paint Brush Box
Pick plant-oil-based paint on small knickknacks. It’s gone out of favor for more affordable and readily available alkyd-based oil paints, but this type of paint is still used to augment the natural patina of small wooden objects—think wooden jewelry boxes, photo frames, and other surfaces where its steeper price isn’t cost-prohibitive. Since plant-oil-based paint dries into a slightly softer and suppler surface than alkyd-based oil paints, the wood surface can expand and contract with temperature changes with little risk of the paint coat turning brittle and cracking. Moreover, since the paints are usually comprised only of plant oil, oil drying agents, and natural pigments, they emit little to no VOCs into your household. A semi-gloss to high-gloss sheen reflects more light so makes small objects stand out better than a lower luster sheen would allow.